Checking for gas leaks on your propane tank and LP Gas system are found in almost every home and consist of just soap and water. Soap and water will safely identify and give an indication of the size of the leak. If a spray bottle is used, adjust the tip of the sprayer so that a sharp stream is If You Find a Leak. TIP: A spray bottle of soapy water can help quickly identify and locate any leaks at joints or seals in a pressurized system. “Making sure your system is free of. Use soapy water if you don't have where to submerge the tire: This technique is used in the oil and gas industry to locate leaks in pipe joints & seals. . with the tip of your tongue to seal the hole and verify it's location. For finding leaks in tires of any sort, I like to keep a spray bottle of soap water handy.
help joints and leaks identify spray of at any or soapy quickly A can seals bottle water TIP: locate
Tape will work as a dam on clean surfaces. It helps prevent the backer rod from floating up, making unsightly humps. I will let you know. Like I said in our emails you have a TON of fantastic tips. Please let me know how this project works out for you so that we can feature in on DIY Success Stories. Driveways and sidewalks can be super expensive to repair. And if these products can help us homeowners save money and time then they are well worth the money.
I just did my expansion joints with backer road and Sikaflex. Prep was the big job. They look kind of dumb with the nice grey sikaflex expansion joints. So I was wondering about sweeping some loose sand into the cracks in the joints and adding sikafex without backer which would not work as the joints are not that wide or deep. Sikaflex is too thin and would probably run thru the un-stoppered sand filled cracks. I spoke with another friend about this exact issue.
Prep indeed stinks for expansion joints. This fix also is more aesthetic than anything. Ask them about your sand idea. Hope this helps a bit. Thanks for the reply. I understand about the purpose of control joints…to crack where you want it to!
I have one long center joint with the Sikaflex and two lateral ones one at the garage and one on the pads It looks really nice now. No caverns and no weeds! But like you said it is the aesthetics of those unfilled control joints that bother me.
You know the look. I was going to ask my neighbor about the idea of the control joints…he is the chief PA Dot bridge engineer for W. PA and he works with this sort of stuff on a big scale. He did his driveway 5 years ago and it appears he did the control joints too.
I will call Sikaflex on Monday. I filled one with sane and swept most of it away. There is also a concrete crack filler at HD with a squeeze bottle that does fill cracks I think but it may be too runny as well.
Thanks for writing back so quick. Whew, your driveway is a big boy!! Make sure to take several pics and send them to me, I should post your project so that other homeowners will know what to do with a similar scenario!! Jeff, I need to re-do my driveway expansion joints. However, my driveway has a decent slope to it. Will it simply run down the expansion joint to the street?
Thanks for your question, I got a similar one recently from another friend and have the same issue myself. But the product details on their site say the Concrete Fix is meant for this kind of project.
Sikaflex SL self leveling is like pancake batter. Apply a big bead between two slabs of concrete and you will have a nice flat shiny surface in a few minutes. You need to dam up the ends of the joint to contain the sealant. I think if you apply it at the top of a sloped driveway you will have a puddle at the bottom in no time. I think they make a thicker formula that might need tooled. That thicker formula might just be Sika Concrete Fix.
Have you ever used it? Thanks for the replies gents. I guess the question for Sika is going to be along the lines of whether it is elastic enough? I called Sika today and asked them about our sloped driveway issue.
So, this looks to be a viable course of action. Have you already tried to clean the caulk with soap and water? Water, wind, and sun activate it to clean over time like months. My story is a long one. I purchased my home in We originally had Astro turf yuk. We replaced it and the wooden expansion joints. My EJs go all the way down to the earth. Some are normal size some have grown wider and deeper.
Are there larger diameter backer rod material? In my case it would bigger the better. Hey Jeff, Instead of using Foam backer rods could you use sand to fill up the hole? I have plenty of sand on hand if its OK to use. What if a day after using sikafelx SL I realize I need to apply another layer for a better leveling? Do I apply it right away 24 hours after first application or do I wait 5 days until it cures? You should give Sika a call and ask their technical support department.
They only work Monday through Friday. I like your video representations for the SIKA concrete sealant but would prefer black. Do they have a choice for black or do you have any other product recommended with the black color? This would be a good option since the black would hide stains and whatnot.
Let me know what you find if you get a solution first. Do I use the same material to seal the joints between these two different materials? I attached product info for this product in the P. The joint in my driveway varies and is over an inch. Is there width limit to this method? Also it has been pretty wide for quite a while. Is there a good way to remove the dirt and the weeds growing in there?
Our joints are over an inch as well. Make sure to read the label on the product that you decide to use. I do know that SikaFlex has specific instructions on depth and width. Let them die off then remove them with a string trimmer. First of all, I would like to thank you for posting this valuable resource. Dear Sir, I am in middle of resealing the concrete slab pavement.
The damaged sealant were removed and I am stuck now due to rain and cannot pour the new sealant. Guide me of how to protect the existing joints from seepage of rain water that will harm the slab. You can always call the maker of the sealant and ask them for advice. Can I use sika concrete sealer at the base of my concrete foundation wall meets concrete sidewalk.
Hey Mike, great question. Will the Sika sealant fill in the gaps around it? Trim-A- Slab is a better product, easier to install and longer lasting. Search Trim-A-Slab on eBay for best deal. It pops up and you have to constantly push it back down. You can get a tighter fit by combining two pieces, almost like a hair braid. Great tutorial, big fan of DIY and just starting to get into house stuff and you are very thorough! I have a sort of dumb rookie question that I seem to not be able to find on the Sika PDFs about the product so I will apologize ahead of time but what exactly is the dry time for Sika Cement Fix?
We just used this to seal some cracks in the shower and some members of the family have been itching to shower now!
Is that enough time? But call the Sika technical service line and see what they say. To obtain a more textured and incognito appearance is it possible to sprinkle sand to the surface after caulking and if so how soon afterwards should this be done. The depth seems very deep between the slabs on my driveway, I can can put my finger all the way down to the dirt.
Also, any advice for directing the water away from the garage? You can use foam backer rod Sherry to fill the depth. Then you can fill in the gap using Sika Flex self leveling sealant. You may want to add the information that if the backer rod is twisted to fill the joint the mastic is going to leak around the openings on the outside of the twists. Use a cheap caulking to prefill the openings, wait a few minutes for the caulking to set.
I wasted about 3 tubes of mastic for first hand experience. If this has been mentioned already, sorry, but would also have a bucket if fine sand and spread it over the caulking as you go, makes it look a ton nicer when finished. Sweep or blow the excess sand into the yard after 24 hours. This will help to maintain a professional finish and assist with cleanup of any sealant that overflows during application. I have a basement which is below ground level 1 metre, my concrete slab and the masonry walls are waterproof but the water is coming up between expansion joint which is between masonry wall and concrete slab is there a product that can stop a tiny puddle of water surfacing on my concrete slab when I get heavy rains?
Love your advice and want to get started but used the level whereby some of the driveway concrete is higher than the garage slab and some spots are lower. Will this cause water to run into garage after I use the filler? You could try to fill the expansion joint with the backer rod and then spray water on it with a hose. This might give you a good idea of how the water will travel before you fill the joint with the sealant. What would you suggest for sealing inclined joints? Sikaflex works on slightly inclined surfaces like my typical suburban tract home driveway.
I just did mine and there was no pooling at the bottom. Start at the top and work your way down, using slightly less sealant as you get near the bottom. Thanks Joe for you tip. This question does come up a lot about the pooling action. So any additional advice on the issue is fantastic. Very informative post and video for a dummy like me! Our home has a small gap between the home and the concrete patio through out the perimeter where the patio meets the home.
Do you suggest I can seal it the way you have suggested to prevent water intrusions? Self leveling sealant is a great way to go Krithika because it allows your patio to expand and contract. Any recommendations on which should come first? I priced all this stuff out 4 yrs. My solution was to buy black asphalt patch in pourable jug and pour that in my humungous expansion joint gaps which are in some places close to 2 inches wide and VERY deep.
I pulled out all the old rotted wood where I could. Let me know what you think Jeff! I bought the jugs when they were on sale…. I used sealant you recommended about a year ago. Thanks Nelson for letting me know. The most important part of applying self-leveling sealant is to remove all the old material before putting down the new sealant. Otherwise, the new sealant will not adhere correctly. I know this firsthand because the prior applied self-leveling sealant directly on top of the old material.
Use an angle grinder to cut out the old material and mineral spirits to clean off the concrete. Then apply the new self-leveling sealant.
I really like your concrete joint sealer DIY and how it contains both written and video instructions. We are buying a 50 year old home where the garage floor has settled several inches and is grading toward the foundation. There is a seam between the garage floor and the foundation as the garage floor is not part of the main footprint. I was wondering if as a temporary solution for a few years until the slab would need to be replaced sealing this seam would work to prevent moisture from seeping into the seam with the foundation.
Where we live it gets snowy in the winter and all that moisture ends up falling off our cars onto the garage floor… Thanks for your advice! But they were left in the concrete in the garage of my south carolina home.
I am now smelling mildew. This is upsetting me very much. I believe when i lived in N Y this wood was always removed from the cement when the job was done. Is the same thing done in a garage as you are explaining for driveway fixings. Hi Jeff, We have a large concrete patio that runs the full width of the back of our house.
I m wondering if your guidance re replacing expansion joints applies here as well. The slab has pulled away from the foundation leaving a gap of about an inch.
Any advice would be most appreciated! Hi Jeff, we live in Canada where our winters are usually below zero. We have a concrete patio where no expansion rubber sealant was applied where it meets the foundation. Also the patio meets concrete steps going to the basement which were experiencing the same problem.
What do you recommend? Thank you Jeff for your explanation of repairing concrete driveway expansion joints with Sika. I have one joint that is wide, so my contractor twisted the backer rod as you explained, but there is one problem. Where it is twisted in some areas the Sika being so thin rain down between small openings! Do you have any suggestions what to use to block these small openings before applying more Sika? My husband and I have just purchased our first home, exciting stuff!
The driveway has old wooden expansion joints that need to be replaced. The problem is that the space is huge! Almost 3 inches wide and pretty deep. Any ideas on what we could use to fix them? Would backer rod and sealant work or just replacing with wood be a better option?
Hey Jeff, I just used the self-leveling sealant in the expansion joints of my driveway. Part of the driveway is on a slight slope, causing more sealant to move down the joint toward the bottom of the slope before curing.
The results, some of the sealant cured in a bead above the surface of the driveway. Do I need to do anything with the sealant that cure in the joint with a bead above the driveway surface, or will the seal remain in tack with cars tires rolling over it? Hi Jeff, This is a question that relates but not sure if you can give me your opinion.
I have 1 inch expansion joints that mostly are filled with weeds and some rotting wood. I want to cover the patio with slate tile and am wondering if expansion and contraction will be the much of a concern. Do I still need to fill it with what you have recommended.
By the way, excellent presentation and comments. I am excited to check out some of the other info here as I have tons of projects to do. I just bought a house that has a 5, sq ft concrete driveway. It looks like a airport runway! I live in NH where it gets pretty cold in the winter. Jeff, we did our driveway joints with the backer rods and the self leveling sealant as recommended.
My husband wants more sealant on one of the joints the first one he did. Can you put a second layer of sealant over the first layer? We do have the room to do so in the joint. Great job with your information. I am about to embark on replacing the concrete joint for my back patio here in TX.
The previous sealant was absolutely gone, with not a trace left. The foam was hardened and very brittle. I have already scraped everything out, and have found my joint is at least 4 inches DEEP! The rebar is visible at about 1. So how do I take up this space?? Jeff, Sikaflex is a great product for expansion joint repairs. Do you have any ideas on how to avoid the blob? Will this stuff work, if not do you have any other suggestions?
Any help would be great, thank you. Hi Jeff, The problem I have is my side patio, that buts up to my house is pulling away from the house and I have a big gap there and water is get down the side of my foundation. How would I approach this? The same way you would repair a driveway joint; with backer rod and self leveling sealant? A fast response would be appreciated since winter is right around the corner. Thank you so much! Then I figured that sand will not be compressed when the concrete gets hot and so the concrete will crack.
What kind of cutting wheel do you use with an angle grinder? That seemed to be fine, but he also suggested a black neoprene sealant that I believe was designed for asphalt. I thought it was odd, but thought perhaps the product was just black. Well, I went back today and realized that it is not the self leveling caulk I had requested. My question is, now that I have the black neoprene sealant down, is it fine to put the self leveling caulk on top of it? Man…thanks for such a description for beginners like us..
I just recently had a new concrete driveway poured in July of Very satisfied with everything…. What was once a smooth transition into my garage is no longer. Is this the result of heaving and will it gradually return as the temperatures warm? Only wish I would have been informed by the contractor that this would happen and the possibilities that are out there to resolve this issue. Greatly appreciated and many thanks! Calling the contractor is your best bet. That and taking several pictures. However, occasionally the valve will fail prematurely and start leaking from around the valve stem.
This is rare but it can happen. The bleed screw is a small slotted screw on the side of the valve that lets gas vapour bleed off during the decanting refill process. The refill technician opens it during the filling process and closes it, when done.
You will need a soapy water solution to check for any leaks. Mixing liquid hand soap with water should work fine. Place the solution in a liquid spray bottle. The best practice gas safety advice is that gas bottles should only be in a vehicle for the minimum required transport time.
To find a leak in a tire, start by inflating the tire to the appropriate pressure. Next, inspect the tire thoroughly for any holes, cuts, or protruding objects. You can also try moving closer to the tire and listening for a hissing sound, which indicates where the air leakage is coming from.
If you don't see or hear anything, run your hands over the tire carefully until you feel air escaping to locate your leak. To learn about other ways to find a leak, like using soap and water, read on! This article was co-authored by our trained team of editors and researchers who validated it for accuracy and comprehensiveness.
In order to find a leak the tire must be properly pressurized. Visually inspect the tire. Before moving on to more time consuming techniques, you should take a moment to look at your tire.
If you notice any holes, cuts, or objects protruding from tire then you have found your leak. Listen for a hissing sound. Even if you aren't able to see the problem right away you might be able to hear it. A hissing sound is a clear sign that air is leaking from your tire, and can help you locate the leak. Feel around the tire for air. If you run your hands over the tire carefully you may feel the leak even if you can't hear or see it.
Mix soap and water. Spraying the tire with a little soapy water or window cleaner may help. If you see bubbling at any place on the surface of the tire then you have found your leak.
Cover the tire with the soap and water solution. As air escapes the tire and encounters the soapy water mixture it will form soap bubbles. If you notice the soapy water bubbling at any particular place on the tire, you have found your leak. Pull the car onto level, solid ground. You do not want the car to roll or sink once you have it jacked up. Loosen the lug nuts with a lug wrench tire iron or impact wrench.
It is important to remember to loosen, or break, the lug nuts before you jack up the vehicle.
Concrete Expansion Joints
How to Do Soapy Water Leak Test - How to Detect a Gas Leak in Your Home Put some soapy water in a spray bottle or a dish. ♢ Turn on the. Dripping tap, smelly sink, leaking bath? Toolbox tips: basic plumbing Test to find out which one works by turning them on and off. Give yours a spray of WD40 every now and again, and keep checking it. Isolation valves should be attached to every water-using appliance or fixture in your house. In order to find a leak the tire must be properly pressurized. You should inflate Spraying the tire with a little soapy water or window cleaner may help. If you see .